The joy of canoeing: Llangollen Canal

Embark on this exhilarating journey through two countries, two tunnels and across two breathtaking aqueducts.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Llangollen Canal

 

It’s your new eye level that seduces you the most. Floating low down, almost at the water’s surface, gives you a moorhen’s perspective of the waterscape – it feels grander and more mysterious. Plus you get immediate and intimate encounters with skittering shoals of roach and dancing damselflies.

I’m talking about canoeing. Last year I bought a three-seat inflatable canoe so that my wife, my son and I could embark on adventures afloat. Our local canal – the Monmouthshire & Brecon Canal, which has almost no locks – was the obvious place to enjoy our first voyages.

Inflatable canoes are very portable: ours folds into a backpack and can be inflated in about 10 minutes. It’s made of tough, reinforced synthetic rubbers and has separate chambers so if you get a puncture, you have plenty of time to get ashore safely.

We normally launch from beneath a bridge where the towpath creates a natural mini-quay. My son, who likes to be chief lookout at the bow, gets in first and then it’s a bit of a shuffle to get aboard without making the craft lurch wildly. But once the whole crew has embarked, the little boat feels solid. A picnic cool bag goes at the stern – and makes an extra backrest for me, and the Kelly Kettle and water bottle go at the front. I’d love to put a little tent aboard but we’re not quite at that stage yet.

And then we’re off, settling into a rhythm of paddling – usually after a few raised words about who is out of time and who exactly is doing the steering. We have now agreed that whoever is in the rear gets to steer – which is, apparently, how everyone else does it. In our first voyage, we tended to zig-zag along the canal but now we can move in a relatively straight line, water positively surging beneath the bow.

With trees arching above and the banks gliding by – towpath on one side, trees and wildness on the other – it is the gentlest of safaris. We ghost softly past waterfowl while a wren sings above us from a canalside oak and spotted flycatchers making darting flights over the water to snaffle insects. The boy reports shoals of fish making way before us. Occasionally a heron lifts itself unhappily from the water margins but we’ve yet to see a kingfisher.

The boy’s other main job is to keep an eye out for bigger boats. As soon as he hears or sees one, we pull in to the bank, in clear view and make sure we are seen. There’s plenty of space to pass and we never feel in danger. In the stern, I have to be aware of boats creeping up behind us.

Occasionally we stop paddling altogether and just drift, listening to birdsong and waving and saying hello to the very few walkers and cyclists who pass on the towpath. At this point, the lookout generally needs a sandwich or a hard-boiled egg to keep his wits sharp but the crew’s goal is to find a perfect landing spot for a picnic.

Finally we discover a little sheep-mown meadow running down to the canal and we moor, shuffling out sideways and tying up the canoe securely. All of us have a stretch and feel rather smug about the two miles we have paddled in the past 45 minutes. Then the lookout is sent to find twigs, dry grass and bracken so we can light the kettle – and the skipper and first mate have one more discussion about exactly who is skipper and who is first mate. Tea beside a canal after a voyage of discovery tastes quite perfect. As do our sandwiches.

After our leisurely picnic, the lookout catches a few sticklebacks in the shallows with the net we’ve brought and we return to the boat and gently paddle back to our home port beneath the bridge. Deflating and packing up the canoe is very quick and soon there is no trace of our waterborne adventure, save for beaming faces and some wet socks.

Llangollen Canal: Llantysilio to Chirk
This is one of the most extraordinary inland canoe trips you can possibly do – the 11 miles take you through two countries, two tunnels and across two breathtaking aqueducts. It’s best started at the Llantysilio end rather than Chirk as the canal has a definite flow to it and it can make paddling so much easier. The canal follows the deep valley of the river Dee offering a swan’s eye view of the hills and the handsome town of Llangollen (which is always worth a visit, if only for a riverside coffee). As the water here is moving, it’s generally quite clear, so you might be able to see shoals of fish. Kingfishers are also common. Things take a dramatic turn at Trevor Marina – the canal turns sharply right onto the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, a cast iron trough supported by giant stone pillars 39 metres (127 feet) above the River Dee. Stick close to the towpath side as there is a unguarded drop the other side. A little further on is the 175m long Whitehouse Tunnel – you must have a bright, forward facing flashlight before entering – and make sure the tunnel is clear. Shortly after that you come to the Chirk Tunnel and Aqueduct – both impressive, if much smaller versions, of what you’ve already experienced. Finish at the pretty village of Chirk with its National Trust castle and gardens.

Canoeing and kayaking on the Trust’s waterways
Exploring our canals and rivers by canoe can help you get fit, closer to nature and allows you to experience our waterways from a totally new angle. Head to our website for your guide to getting started. In order to use your boat on the canal network, you will also need to purchase a waterways licence, which you can buy directly from our website.

Safety on the water
A buoyancy aid is essential for small children, even strong swimmers. Keep alert at all times – the canal is often narrow and narrowboats, while not swift, are big and heavy. Make sure you are seen and move well out of the way. And don’t forget to look behind regularly. Keep a whistle and a torch on board to signal to other boats if needed. Never enter locks in a canoe.

Christine Rösch